Jodhpur

Jodhpur had a certain charm, but this was specifically because we got into the old city at 6:00. No one was around. Apart from the odd autorickshaw clattering by with their mosquito engines, the city was as calm as the Hindu cows that populated the streets with their curious looks, skeletal bodies and cow dung.

The Cosy Guest House, advertised in the Lonely Planet guide as one of the few hostels among the blue houses of Jodhpur - consequently known as the Blue City (deservedly) as Jaipur is the Pink City (undeservedly) - is hidden away. The autorickshaw dropped us off at a small side street where a sign indicated the way down a back alley, though at this point, they're all back alleys. We started climbing up between blue houses up a steep hill, avoiding drains filled with a milky water, cow shit that had been spread by the wheels of motorbikes and the odd motorbike itself flying by. Mothers were preparing and taking their kids to school, all very friendly and smiley at the two white guys with oversized bags on their back and under their eyes....another sign indicated the way...an old man shouted and pointed to tell us we were going the wrong way...eventually an end was in sight. Unfortunately all rooms were currently occupied, so we couldn't check in until later that day. We were told most people were checking out, so to come back later. So we left our luggage and went to see some sites, though not before finding some breakfast.

There was nowhere to eat in town. We found one restaurant which at 7:00 was barely open. Another Poori Bhaji and a short intermission in a squatting toilet full of spiders set us up for a productive day.

We hit the bazaar first - dead as a town from the first scene of any zombie movie. We kept going up to the fort. Another steep climb was made easier by the knowledge that, doing this any later in the day, would have meant a torturous climb under a hot sun. The fort wasn't open when we reached the top, so we waited 30 minutes until we could buy our foreigner (over)priced ticket and go in.

Our ticket this time included and audio headset. So I actually learnt a fair amount about this fort. However, having had only a few hours of sleep, I can't remember much. I will attempt to read up on it before I leave which should jog the memory.

We played 'the price is right' with the local rickshaw drivers that waited at the fort exit to take people to the marble temple and garden not too far away. It turns out the price was wrong. We tried walking away, but they wouldn't budge on Rs 80. Alas to cheap, we walked in the sun until we one passed us by and agreed to Rs 50 to the marble temple and down to the centre of town. When we finally got down there, he wanted Rs 100 - sorry dude, you should agreed that when we got in!

The afternoon was spent resting at the hostel, blogging and doing some laundry. A few hours sleep regenerated the batteries enough to get us on the 6:00 train to Jaisalmer.

Apologies for the poor quality of content, it's simply because we are starting to feel like butter thinly scraped on a piece of a toast.